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Sulfate free DIY Shampoo

Sandalwood Shampoo Formulation - Sulfate free shampoo

About the ingredients:

This is a Sulphate free shampoo with natural surfactants. It is a clear shampoo, you can add colour or use a fragrance with transparent colour for more clear(similar to water) shampoo.

  • Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate: Anionic surfactant which is mild and has good foaming properties.
  • Coco glucoside: Non-ionic surfactant which increases the mildness of the shampoo. Decyl glucoside can be used but the foam will differ.
  • Coco Betaine: Amphoteric surfactant which boosts foam and also helps in increasing viscosity.

Conditioning ingredients:

  • Glycine is an amino acid which helps hair look healthy. It is also a moisturising and conditioning ingredient.
  • Glycerin(optional) is a humectant which adds moisture to the hair.
  • Polyquat 7: It is a cationic conditioning agent which reduces frizz and increases shine.
  • Hydrolyzed proteins (Hyd. Rice Protein, Hyd. Wheat Protein): Hydrolysed proteins help in repairing damaged hair. Other hydrolysed proteins like oat protein, milk protein can be added.
  • Olivem 300: It increases foaming in a shampoo and also adds emollient properties.

Other ingredients:

  • Sodium gluconate is a natural chelating agent which stabilises the formulation and also prevents foam reduction when hard water is used. EDTA can also be added.
  • Polysorbate 80: To solubilise fragrance oil in shampoo. It helps in making clear shampoos when oils need to be incorporated in water based formulations.
  • Salt: natural thickening agent. To make a more thick shampoo, gums like xanthan gum or polymers like carbomer can be used.
  • Sandalwood fragrance oil for a nicer scent. Fragrance oil can be any but the ratio between F.O and Polysorbate 80 varies with fragrance oil. It needs to be tested before incorporating to shampoo directly otherwise shampoo will be cloudy or milky.
  • Lactic acid: to reduce the pH to 5.5. Citric acid is a good alternative
  • Geogard ECT: Preservative for a longer shelf life.

Ingredients required:

Phase A:

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate 15%

Coco Betaine 10%

Coco Glucoside 5%

Distilled water 55.5%

Phase B:

Glycerin 3%

Glycine 0.5%

Sodium gluconate 0.1%

Salt 1.5%

Phase C:

Polysorbate 80 1%

Sandalwood F.O 1%

Phase D:

Olivem 300 2%

Polyquat 7 1%

Hydrolysed proteins (Wheat, Rice) 3%

Preservative Eco  1%

Lactic acid 0.4%


Equipment required:

100ml glass beakers

Stirring rods and Spatulas

Heating mantle or Double boiler

Glass bottle or serum container

Weighing scale (that measures upto 0.01g)

Cups to measure ingredients




  • Measure Phase A, Phase B, Phase ingredients in seperate beakers.
  • Stir Phase B and Phase C ingredients to mix properly.
  • Measure Phase D ingredients in another beaker.
  • Add Phase B, Phase C and Phase D ingredients in Phase A and slowly stir.
  • Once everything is dissolved, check pH and adjust to 5.5. (Salt can be added more 0.5% if the thickness is not as per the video)
  • Pour in a shampoo bottle.


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Disclaimer: This blog is for educational and informational purposes only.




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