Tranexamic Acid Serum: Lightweight Spot-Correcting Formula (DIY Guide)

Tranexamic Acid Serum: How to Make a Spot-Correcting Serum (Complete Formulation Guide)

Dark spots, melasma, and uneven pigmentation are some of the most common skincare concerns - and tranexamic acid (TA) is one of the most effective and gentle ingredients to target them. This guide explains what tranexamic acid serum does, why niacinamide pairs perfectly with it, and how to formulate a lightweight, stable, emulsified serum that suits all skin types.

Below is a complete breakdown of ingredients, percentages, equipment, steps, and tips for creating this brightening serum at home or in a lab.

What Is Tranexamic Acid Serum?

Tranexamic acid serum is a spot-correcting, brightening formulation designed to fade dark spots, sun damage, melasma, and post-inflammatory pigmentation. This formula combines 3% tranexamic acid with 3% niacinamide, humectants, and lightweight emollients to deliver a smooth, non-sticky, quick-absorbing texture.

Key Benefits

1. Reduces Dark Spots & Melasma

Tranexamic acid inhibits melanin transfer, helping reduce stubborn pigmentation.

2. Brightens & Evens Skin Tone

Niacinamide boosts radiance, supports the skin barrier, and enhances brightening performance.

3. Hydrates & Softens the Skin

Propanediol, hyaluronic acid, and lightweight oils help keep skin plump and moisturized.

4. Suitable for Most Skin Types>

The formula is emulsified, lightweight, and designed for even acne-prone or sensitive skin.

Who Can Use This Serum? 

This serum works well for:

• Uneven skin tone
• Dark spots
• Melasma & pigmentation patches
• Post-acne marks
• Dull skin

Ingredients Overview (Purpose + Usage %)

Below is a quick reference to each ingredient and why it is included.

A. Water Phase Ingredients

1. Tranexamic Acid (3%)

• Fades melasma, dark spots, sun damage
• Works with niacinamide, HA, Vitamin C
• Water-soluble
• Ideal pH: 5–7
• Use level: 2–5%

2. Niacinamide (3%)

• Brightens skin
• Reduces pigmentation
• Strengthens skin barrier
• Usage: 1–10%
• Water-soluble, works best above pH 5

3. Propanediol 1,3 (5%)

• Natural humectant with a non-sticky feel
• Boosts activity penetration
• Helps dissolve actives
• Usage: up to 10%

B. Oil Phase Ingredients

1. C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (2%)

Lightweight, fast-absorbing ester useful for oily or acne-prone skin.

2. Emogreen L19 (1%)

Biodegradable, silky emollient that enhances spreadability.

3. Lotionpro (4%)

Self-emulsifying, acid-stable emulsifier that creates smooth oil-in-water emulsions.

4. Cetyl Alcohol (2%)

Fatty alcohol used for thickness and stability.

5. Hyaluronic Acid (0.2%)

Hydrates and plumps the skin.

6. Cool Down Phase Ingredients

Ases Preserve PHEHG (1%)

·         Broad-spectrum preservative (Phenoxyethanol + Ethylhexylglycerin).

·         Paraben- and formaldehyde-free.

Witch Hazel Extract (0.5%)

·         Soothing, gentle astringent.

·         Can be replaced with green tea or cucumber extract.

Fragrance Oils (optional 0.5%)

• Enhances sensory feel

 

Complete Formula Breakdown

Use this table when measuring ingredients:

Phase	Ingredient	Percentage
Water	Distilled Water	80.3%
Water	Propanediol 1,3	5%
Water	Tranexamic Acid	3%
Water	Niacinamide	3%
Oil	C12–15 Alkyl Benzoate	2%
Oil	Emogreen L19	1%
Oil	Lotionpro	4%
Oil	Cetyl Alcohol	2%
Oil	Hyaluronic Acid	0.2%
Cool-down	Ases Preserve PHEHG	1%
Cool-down	Witch Hazel Extract	0.5%

How to Make Tranexamic Acid Serum (Step-By-Step Guide) 

Step 1: Prepare the Water Phase

• Add distilled water, propanediol, niacinamide, and tranexamic acid to a beaker.
• Heat gently below 40°C until everything dissolves.

Step 2: Prepare the Oil Phase

• In a separate beaker, add C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Emogreen L19, Lotionpro, cetyl alcohol, and hyaluronic acid.
• Heat to 60°C until melted.

Step 3: Emulsify

• Pour the oil phase into the water phase slowly.
• Blend using a stick blender in short, controlled bursts until the mixture thickens slightly.

Step 4: Cool Down Additions

• Let the serum reach room temperature.
• Add Ases Preserve PHEHG and Witch Hazel Extract.

Step 5: Adjust pH

• Ensure the final pH is around 5.5.

Step 6: Rest & Package

• Allow the formulation to rest for 24 hours.
• Transfer into a serum pump bottle.

Equipment Required

• Serum pump bottles
• 100 ml glass beakers
• Stirring rods / spatulas
• Heating mantle or double boiler
• Digital scale (0.01 g precision)
• Measuring cups
• Gloves, goggles, head cap

Troubleshooting (Formulator-Friendly) 

A. Serum is separating

·         Blend longer

·         Increase Lotionpro by 0.5–1%

B. Serum too thick

·         Reduce cetyl alcohol

·         Lower emulsification time

C. Serum too thin

·         Increase cetyl alcohol to 2.5–3%

·         Add a compatible gum in oil phase

D. White streaks when applying

·         Lower blending speed during cool-down

E. Usage Instructions

• Use once daily at night.
• Always apply sunscreen during the day when using brightening actives.
• Patch test recommended for sensitive skin.

Share Your Creations! 

If you try this formulation, tag us on Instagram @ases.chem - we’d love to see your creations.

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FAQs About Tranexamic Acid Serum

1. What does tranexamic acid serum do? 

It fades dark spots, melasma, and discoloration by reducing melanin transfer.

2. Can I use tranexamic acid with niacinamide? 

Yes - this combination enhances brightening and improves overall skin tone.

3. What percentage of tranexamic acid is best? 

2–5% is recommended for cosmetic formulations.

4. Is this serum suitable for sensitive skin? 

Yes, the formula is gentle, but always patch test.

5. How long until I see results? 

Most users notice visible improvement in 4–6 weeks.