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Brightening Arbutin Serum


Arbutin is effective and safe skin brightening ingredient which is used in majority 
of skin lightening creams and serums. It helps in reducing dark spots and even skin tone.
Note that sunscreen is must whenever skin lightening products are used because it increases the exposure to UV light rays.

 

Note on ingredients used:

  • Arbutin is non-irritating ingredient which can be easily dissolved in water phase.
  • Propanediol 1,3 is a non-sticky humectant which also acts as a penetration enhancer.
  • Hyaluronic acid is also a humectant which has a good skin feel and gel texture.
  • Cucumber extract is soothing and calming to the skin.
  • Fragrance oil added is Vanilla fragrance oil. It has a mild chocolaty scent.
  • To solubilise fragrance oil, Polysorbate 80 is added.
  • Sodium Gluconate- chelating agent improves the stability of formulation.
  • Sodium Benzoate and Potassium Sorbate are natural preservatives which work as broad spectrum under pH 5.5. Both are soluble in water

 

Ingredients required:

Phase A:

Arbutin 2%

Sodium Gluconate- 0.1%

Propanediol 1,3- 3%

Cucumber extract- 1%

Lactic acid- 0.2%

Distilled water- 91%

Sodium Benzoate- 1%

Potassium Sorbate- 0.2%

Phase B:

Vanilla Fragrance Oil 0.2%

Polysorbate 80- 1%

Phase C:

Hyaluronic Acid- 0.3%

 

Equipment required:

100ml glass beakers

Stirring rods and Spatulas

Heating mantle or Double boiler

Glass bottle or serum container

Weighing scale (that measures up to 0.01g)

Cups to measure ingredients

 

 

 

Procedure:

  • Measure Phase A ingredients in a beaker.
  • Add one ingredient at a time and stir to dissolve. Arbutin takes some time to dissolve. You could add it to warm water too (temperature should not greater than 40 degree Celsius)

 

 

  • Add Phase B ingredients in another beaker and stir so that fragrance oil is mixed in polysorbate. This way fragrance oil will be solubilised in water easily and no floating oil droplets.

 

 

  • Once powders are dissolved, add Phase B to phase and mix gently.
  • Sprinkle HA powder in the last. Leave it for 3-4 hours or overnight to hydrate.
  • HA forms lumps initially but it will be dissolved in sometime.

  • If it is not dissolved even after 4 hours, you can break the lumps with stirring rod or use blender.
  • Test the pH, it should be around 4.5. If it is higher, add few drops of lactic acid, if it is lower add few drops of TEA (Triethanolamine).

Stable pH for Arbutin: 3.5 - 6.6

  • Once HA is hydrated and it has a nice gel texture, pour into a dropper or serum bottle.

Substitutions:

  • Rose water or hydrosol can be used instead of fragrance oil and polysorbate 80 for fragrance.
  • Extracts can be of your choice.
  • EDTA Disodium can be used in place of sodium gluconate.

 

If you make and like this serum, do tag us on instagram @ases.chem

Disclaimer: This blog is for educational and informational purposes only.

 

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