5% Mandelic acid Serum
5% Mandelic acid Serum:
Mandelic acid is the gentle one in AHA (Alpha Hydroxy acids). AHA’s have multiple benefits to skin. It does gentle exfoliation unlike physical exfoliants like Sugar/salt scrub. It helps in reducing fine lines, dark spots making skin look brighter and glowing. It is also considered as an anti-ageing ingredient. It is suitable to many skin types.
5% mandelic acid concentration makes this one effective to use weekly twice. Sunscreen is mandatory (to be used every day) since exfoliation increases the chance of sun exposure and tanning.
About the ingredients:
Ingredients considered are moisturising, prevents irritation and dryness due to exfoliation.
Mandelic acid: Key ingredient is Mandelic acid. It has a very low pH around 2. pH needs to be around 3.7 for this serum. So we have to add a pH buffer like Na0H solution or L-Arginine to increase pH. We have used 10% NaOH (lye) solution.
Caution: Lye should not be handled bare handed or eyes. It can burn skin. Wear gloves, face mask, shoes, and full-sleeved dress before handling lye. Also make sure children and pets are out of the place.
10% NaOH Solution: Take 90g of water in a beaker and slowly add 10g of lye. Stir it to dissolve completely. Store in a separate airtight container.
Hyaluronic acid: Hyaluronic acid brings moisture to the skin and also gives a nice smooth texture to the serum and skin.
DL Panthenol: Aka Pro-Vitamin B5 has an anti-inflammatory effect. It moisturises and hydrates skin. It strengthens barrier, reduces trans-epidermal water loss.
DM Water: Demineralised water
Glycerin: Glycerin is also a humectant like HA. This can be skipped.
Cucumber extract: Cucumber extract is soothing to skin. It has a calming effect.
Preservative Eco: Natural preservative which is effective for low pH products
How to add Hyaluronic acid to form gel texture:
- Hydrate HA in Glycerin, add in the remaining ingredients and blend it. This might take time or would be lumpy if not done properly.
- Simpler way: Add HA in the last after adjusting pH and leave it for few hours or a day to settle.
Ingredients required: (100g)
Mandelic acid (5g)
Hyaluronic acid (0.8g)
DL Panthenol (1g)
DM Water (88.2g)
Cucumber extract (1g)
Preservative Eco (1g)
Fragrance Oil (1g)
Serum pump bottles
Steel or Glass Stirring rods and Spatulas
Heating mantle or Double boiler
Weighing scale (that measures up to 0.01g)
Cups to measure ingredients
Eye goggles/ glasses
- Measure HA and Glycerin
- Add HA in Glycerin to hydrate.
- Measure all other ingredients and add in a beaker.
- Now slowly add hydrated HA-Glycerin mixture to the remaining phase.
- Blend it to dissolve HA. (Or you can add HA in the last)
- Check pH and add NaOH solution to bring pH to 3.7
- As pH increases, serum becomes clear from cloudy. It also starts thickening.
- Pour in serum bottle
How to use:
- This serum should be applied in night after face wash.
- Can be used weekly twice.
- Moisturiser to be used in day to prevent dry feel.
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Disclaimer: This blog is for educational and informational purposes only.
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