L Ascorbyl Palmitate
L-Ascorbyl Palmitate is a fat-soluble ester of vitamin C, created by combining L-ascorbic acid with palmitic acid. This modification yields a molecule that is more oil-soluble versus traditional water-soluble vitamin C derivatives, making it ideal for lipid-rich and oil-based cosmetic formulations. It functions as a potent antioxidant, protecting formulations from oxidative degradation and delivering skin-beneficial effects such as brightening, collagen support and protection against free radicals.
INCI Name: L-Ascorbyl Palmitate
Molecular Formula: C₂₂H₃₈O₇
Alternate Names: Ascorbyl Palmitate, L-Ascorbic acid 6-palmitate, 6-O-Palmitoyl-L-ascorbic acid, Vitamin C Palmitate
Purity of the Ingredient: 99%
Country of Origin: India
Benefits and Uses:
- Provides lipid-soluble vitamin C antioxidant protection for skin and oils
- Helps guard formulations and botanical oils against oxidative degradation
- Supports skin brightening and a more even tone via antioxidant activity
- Aids in collagen synthesis and skin firmness integrity
- Suitable for oil-based serums, facial oils, creams, sticks and lipophilic systems
- Ideal for “luxury” skincare formulations with oil-soluble actives
How It Works:
- Because it is an esterified form of vitamin C, it has increased lipophilicity and can reside in lipid compartments of the skin or oils more effectively than plain ascorbic acid.
- Acts as an antioxidant by scavenging free radicals and inhibiting lipid peroxidation, thereby protecting both the skin and formulation from oxidative stress.
- Once in the skin, it may convert to active vitamin C or deliver vitamin C-like benefits, contributing to collagen synthesis and melanin regulation (brightening).
- Also enhances the stability of oily phases and improves formulation longevity when included in oil-based systems.
pH and Ideal Temperature Range for Best Use:
- pH: Because L-Ascorbyl Palmitate is oil-soluble, the effective pH of the overall formulation rather than the actives alone is relevant. It works well in neutral to slightly acidic systems (around pH 5.5-7) when included in oil or emulsion phases.
- Ideal Temperature Range: Add during the cooler phase of formulation (typically below ~40 °C) to preserve potency and avoid degradation. Keep formulation protected from high heat and direct light.
- Store it in a cool, dry, dark place (avoid high temperature and oxidation) to retain activity.
How to Use L-Ascorbyl Palmitate:
- In oil-based serums / facial oils: Use at 1-3% of the total formula. Warm gently to dissolve the powder into your carrier oil (such as squalane, jojoba, or MCT) then cool before final addition.
- In emulsions / creams: Incorporate into the oil phase or during the warm-up phase, then cool down before adding heat-sensitive ingredients. Use at 0.5-2% for general benefits, or up to ~5% for more advanced applications (formulator discretion).
- DIY Tip: Because it is oil-soluble, ensure full dispersion: pre-dissolve it in a small amount of oil or oil-soluble solvent before blending into the rest of the oil phase. Combine with other skin-beneficial oils or esters (e.g., vitamin E, coenzyme Q10) for a synergistic antioxidant blend.
- Patch Test Recommended: As with any active ingredient, test a small area before full use, especially in facial or eye-area applications.
- Storage: Keep your finished product out of direct sunlight, limit air exposure (use opaque or air-tight packaging) and store below ~25-30 °C if possible to preserve antioxidant activity.