Calcium Thioglycolate (Hair Removing Formulation)
Calcium Thioglycolate is a white crystalline powder, a calcium salt of thioglycolic acid, used predominantly in hair removal (depilatory) formulations. It works by breaking down the disulfide bonds in keratin, allowing hair to dissolve and be wiped away from the skin. Compared to harsher sulfide-based alternatives, it typically offers a gentler yet effective action with reduced odor and irritation.
INCI Name: Calcium Thioglycolate
Molecular Formula
-
Anhydrous form: C₂H₂CaO₂S, molar mass ~130.18 g/mol
-
Trihydrate form: C₄H₆CaO₄S₂, molar mass ~222.3 g/mol
Alternate Names: Calcium bis(mercaptoacetate), Thioglycolic acid calcium salt
Purity of the Ingredient ≥ 98% purity (crystalline form)
Country of Origin: India
Benefits and Uses
-
Depilatory: Breaks disulfide bonds in hair keratin, so hair dissolves and can be wiped away
-
Keratolytic/Exfoliant: Helps dissolve thickened skin and calluses
-
Reducing Agent: Reduces disulfide bonds, allowing milder alkaline formulations
-
pH Stabilizer: Acts as a pH adjuster in depilatory products
How It Works
-
Cleaves disulfide bonds in keratin, weakening the hair structure so it can be removed at the skin level
-
Works best in combination with alkaline agents (e.g., calcium hydroxide) to raise pH for optimal action
pH and Ideal Temperature Range for Best Use
-
Ideal pH Range: 12 to 12.5 (strongly alkaline)
-
Temperature Sensitivity: Avoid heating above 40 °C; prone to oxidation and discoloration if overheated
How to Use Calcium Thioglycolate
-
Typical Usage Level:
-
Calcium Thioglycolate: 5–7.5% of the formulation
-
Calcium Hydroxide: ~1.5%, keeping a 5:1 ratio between thioglycolate and hydroxide
-
Do not exceed 10% total active content
-
-
Mixing Guidelines:
-
Heat oil-phase ingredients to ~70–80 °C, blend with water-phase, then cool to ~30 °C before adding thioglycolate and hydroxide
-
Use airtight, non-reactive packaging to prevent oxidation
-
-
Consumer Use:
-
Apply a thick layer to the target area, leave on for 5–15 minutes (shorter for sensitive areas)
-
Remove with a damp cloth and rinse thoroughly
-
Follow with a soothing moisturizer
-